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click  here to download a pdf version of the install  guide






This engine has been carefully remanufactured to precision   standards. It will perform properly IF certain steps are taken by the person   making the installation.


An engine is a complex component that requires the highest   degree of technical knowledge to install. It is recommended that you, the   installer, have an ASE certificate or the equivalent before you accept the   RESPONSIBILITY for properly installing the engine.


When a properly remanufactured engine fails to give   satisfactory service, it can be due to detonation, pre-ignition or “lugging”,   overheating due to improperly working cooling system or a lean burn condition,   excessively rich air-fuel ratio, under-lubrication, dirt, improperly cleaned   covers, reusing the oil cooler, coolant seepage, ineffective air filtering. The   above mention reasons for failure are the responsibility, under the control, of   the installing mechanic/technician not the engine builder.




In order to insure trouble free operation of your   remanufactured engine, you must determine what caused the previous engine to   fail and correct it. After correcting the cause of the previous engine’s   failure, please read and following installation procedures.


CAUTION, these recommended installation procedures   and instructions are a partial list intended only as a guide. If you are not   qualified to undertake this installation, do not attempt it as you may be liable   for resulting engine failure. 


Replacing all of the following with a new or   rebuilt/remanufactured unit is recommended: valve lifters, oil pump, push rods,   rocker arms, oil pump with new screen, spark plugs, points (if applicable),   condenser, motor mounts, oil filters, air filters, water pump, thermostat, PCV   valve & grommets and clean lines (Note: A plugged line or faulty valve may cause   excessive oil consumption and blow by), carburetor (may be rebuilt) and make   sure the EGR valve is operating to OEM specifications.


Following the manufacturer’s installation procedures;   especially proper torque values. Inspect the rocker cover baffle for possible   restrictions.


Contamination is an  engine’s worst enemy. We  recommend that you thoroughly clean parts that will be  attached to the  rebuilt/remanufactured engine.


Any and all parts not included with the remanufactured  engine  or engine component should be cleaned properly before installing on  a new  remanufactured engine.




§  Check for freight damage and dirt contamination of the engine.

§  Check for proper valve train timing.

§  Check that ALL oil gallery plugs are installed, tight and sealed.

§  Check that ALL freeze plugs are  installed and sealed.

§  Check that temperature recording labels or heat tabs on the block and the heads   are installed.

§  Check application of the product – make sure the mounting holes, bell housing,   crankshaft snout, flywheel mounting flange, bolt hole patterns, pilot shaft   hole, smog/non-smog application, etc., are the same on new products as they are   on the old by comparing casting numbers.

§  Clean all accessories to be transferred to the new product from the old one.   Resurfacing of the old intake manifold and machine gasket surfaces is   recommended.



§  Inspect for erosion, breakage, warpage, porosity and abnormal wear patterns.

§  Measure covers containing oil pump for wear and replace if not within OE   tolerances.

§  Install new timing chain tensioners, dampeners, etc.

§  Install camshaft seals and seal cam caps.

§ Camshaft  and rear main seals not installed  by the engine remanufacturer are not  covered by the engine warranty!!



Flat, Roller, HLC  (Hydraulic Lash Compensators)

§  Install new lifters and inspect push rods in short blocks to avoid camshaft wear   & premature failure.

§  Do not preload lifters (it causes undo stress to the camshaft and lifters which   may lead to early failure).

§  Lifter rattle at cold start is not uncommon, and does not cause engine damage.   Roller & OHC lifters may take up to 1000 miles to bleed and remove all air   pockets. Always use 5W30 oil on OHC and roller applications.

§  Roller lifters may be reused if within OE specs.

§  Hydraulic Lash Compensators (HLC) are generally reusable, but may need to be   purged of all air.



(Harmonic Balancer)

§  Check seal surface of pulley hub and repair or replace if grooved or damaged   (harmonic balancer seal surface wear sleeves may be available).

§  Do not install the harmonic balancer with a hammer 

§  Lubricate seal surface prior to installation to prevent damage to seal.

§  Check outer ring for slippage as this could cause “O” timing mark to not   indicate top dead center.

§  Replace balancers set in rubber. (The interior rubber deteriorates with age,   allowing the balancer to slip, possibly causing timing problems and detonation,   overheating, vibration and unexplained noises).

§  Properly install and position timing belt pulleys for belt installation.

§  Do not over tighten timing belt. This will result in damage.


§  Properly torque cylinder head at installation to OE specifications in the   correct sequence. (Use new bolts when OE requires).

§ Re-torque  cylinder head gaskets at 1,000  miles. Exceptions: Iron   cylinder heads and torque to yield head bolts.



§  Consult shop service manual for dry lash setting for nonadjustable rocker arms.

§  Properly adjust valves cold and again after bringing the engine up to normal   operating temperature.

§ Check  and adjust valves at 1000 miles (if  applicable).



§  Clean off carbon (remove steel heat shield, if equipped, clean and reinstall).

§  Magnetic particles inspect or die check for cracks.

§  Blow out with compressed air to avoid having foreign material enter combustion   chamber.

§  Remove baffle (where applicable) so that all collected contaminants can be   removed.

§  All EGR passages must be cleaned and free of obstruction.

§  Do not over torque manifold bolts. Use OE torque specifications and sequence   ONLY.

§  Do not glass bead intake manifolds to clean.

§  Check water outlet for corrosion.



§  Check for wear and replace if necessary (remanufactured units are available).

§  Confirm proper shaft installation as some can be installed upside down.   Excessive oil consumption may result.


§  Check bushing, mechanical advance, vacuum advance and total advance. NOTE: Total advance should not exceed 34 degrees BTDC. Improper advance  will  cause detonation. Detonation will cause piston damage and can happen very   quickly. New pistons will appear to explode or self destruct. Broken or  damaged pistons are the result of  piston to valve contact, foreign objects  introduced into the combustion chamber  or detonation and are not covered  by the engine warranty!!

§  Check to see that the distributor is fully engaged and locked in the oil pump to   proper depth.

§  Adjust ignition timing to factory specifications.

§  Check distributor drive gear for wear and replace as needed.



§  Carefully service or replace all aspects of the fuel system, i.e. pump, lines,   carburetor or fuel injection components. NOTE: Fuel injectors are not designed to operate properly after 90,000 miles.   Improperly working injectors will cause a lean burn condition and will lead to   excessive combustion operating temperatures. This condition will lead to a   failed head gasket and or damaged pistons and rings. The engine warranty does  not cover head gasket failure! 

§ Diesel  engines: replace injector pump,  injectors and glow plugs.

§  Check fuel lines for breaks and crimps. Use only approved steel lines.

§  Check fuel pump for proper pressure.

§  Check double diaphragm type for faulty vacuum booster which may pump oil through   the intake system.


§  Replace all filters at time of installation and at O.E. recommended intervals.   These filters include air, oil, fuel and crankcase.

§  Use cleaning procedures outlined previously above to clean air cleaner housing,   crankcase vent tubes coolers, air compressors, Donaldson valves, etc.



§  Adjust clutch to proper free pedal BEFORE starting engine, NOT after.

§  Check crankshaft end thrust before and after bolting transmission to engine.

§ PLEASE  NOTE!!! – excessive main bearing  thrust wear may be caused by the  following:


ü  Clutch not adjusted properly

ü  Interference between pilot shaft and crankshaft

ü  Interference between torque converter & crankshaft

ü  Torque converter ballooning

ü  Blockage and/or restriction of transmission oil cooler

ü  Bent, kinked, or damaged supply lines




Preventing  the causes of thrust

bearing  failure is the responsibility

of the  installing technician!

Thrust  bearing failure is not covered by the engine warranty!!





§  Recore or replace the radiator and test flow.

§  Verify thermal conductivity. Minimum of 25 degrees F temperature differential   between inlet and exhaust.

§  Always replace pressure cap and thermostat.

§  Prime cooling system before starting engine.

§  Check electric cooling fan operation.

§  Check worn belts, hoses and water pump.

§  Check temperature with special high heat formula.

§  Check temperature sending unit fan switch.



§  Check to see if unit is free and operating properly.

§  Lubricate with special high heat formula.

§  Make sure hot air door opens freely on air cleaner.




§  Fill to proper level. 


Applications using non-roller lifters & camshafts must use a “BREAK-IN” motor   oil with ZDDP !!! Regular motor oils no longer have Zinc and Phosphorous (ZDDP).   These were used by the motor oil manufacturers as anti-wear additives. You can   also purchase a ZDDP additive from your local auto parts store or the major   camshaft manufacturers. Note: Use of regular motor oils or API SN rated motor   oils will cause lifter & camshaft failure!!!

§ All  other applications must use a motor oil  with high levels of Zinc and  Phosphorous (min. Zinc 1500ppm / min. Phosphorous  1350ppm).

§ We  recommend Brad Penn PENN-GRADE 1 (10W-30)  High Performance motor or  equalevent oil after break-in.


§ Do  not use synthetic motor oils or a  synthetic blend without the minimum  levels of Zinc and Phosphorous until you  have 3000 miles on the engine.  Synthetic motor oils will prevent the engine from  proper break-in (piston  rings, bearings, camshaft & lifters).

§  Use only OE specified lubricants or equivalent to full levels before operation.

§  We recommend 5W30 on all OHC applications.


 § PRIME  ENGINE!!!!!      

§  Use a pressure tank at about 40 pounds pressure to prime (pre-lube) engine as   this will insure vital parts are lubricated properly to avoid dry start.

§  Crankshaft driven oil pumps: remove back cover and pack pump cavity with   petroleum jelly.

§ If  pressure tank is unavailable, use an  aftermarket assembly lubricator kit  for prelubing of system before initial fire  up (follow recommended  procedures). Call for further information. NOTE: Do not  prime engine by  cranking. This will result in damage!!

§  Install new oil pump and pickup screen. Install new oil filter filled with new   oil prior to installation.

§  Check oil pump intermediate shaft for correct size and shape to match   distributor and oil pump, if applicable.

§  Oil pump must be primed before starting. (Run at 800 rpm intervals before   releasing to customer for use to assure proper cylinder lubrication.)

§  Replace oil pressure sending unit.



§  Don’t overlook small parts such as belts, hoses (those that carry liquid and   air) and motor mounts which become weak and worn with age. We suggest that these   items be replaced at time of engine replacement.



§  Be sure to service and inspect accessories such as alternator, starter, water   pump, air compressor, fuel system, EGR valves and all sensors to avoid premature   engine failure.



§  On engines that use a 1-piece full circle rear main seal and flangeless flywheel   mounting system, over torque of the flywheel bolts may distort the seal area and   cause an oil leak. 

§  Some applications require sealer used on crank bolts.



§  Check oil pressure. 

§  Check for proper oil supply to cylinder head.

§  Engine should start, excessive cranking will cause damage.

§ Run  engine @ 2000 - 2500 RPM continually for  20 - 30 minutes to break in the  camshaft. Improper camshaft break-in re result  in premature camshaft lobe  and lifter wear. Premature camshaft lobe and lifter  wear is not covered  under this warranty.

§  Check water temperature.

§  Check for oil and water leaks.

§  Install radiator cap after coolant is observed to be circulating (some   thermostats air lock and prevent proper circulation of coolant).

§  Let engine cool, re-torque cylinder heads, intake manifold and re-adjust valves.

§  Re-start engine, check cooling system function and engine CO level before road   test. Road test and inspect for oil and water leaks.

§ Engine  oil should be replaced after the  first 500 miles and every 3000  thereafter.



(Located on automatic  transmission)

§  Pull off lines, if valve is defective, oil may be present.

§  Replace if above condition is observed, as it may allow transmission fluid to   enter engine through vacuum system and prevent proper ring seal.



§  Replace oxygen sensor with a low pressure gauge.

§  Run engine at 2500 RPM for 1 minute.

§  High pressure reading should be less than 2.5 pounds.

§  A pressure reading over 2.5 pounds indicates an exhaust system restriction which   will cause engine damage. Check catalytic converters and exhaust systems for   restrictions.

§  Inspect exhaust manifold for internal and external cracks, especially on marine   applications.



§  Make an engine analysis data sheet (either a diagnostic printout or handwritten   form) showing the status of the engine and the Engine Support System before   installation, after installation and at the 500 mile checkup.

§  Check engine and service engine soon lights (computer-control problems).

§  Check for any trouble codes, this may be a clue to why the engine previously   failed.

§  Check for correct vacuum hose routing and for vacuum leaks.

§  Replace distributor, wiring, coil and spark plugs to avoid poor performance. On   V-8’s, check plug routing.

§  Final road test vehicle, do not return to customer unless you consider vehicle   to be operating according to OE specifications.

§  Give customer printout of exhaust gas analysis.

§  On computerized emission control systems, check the fallowing items that are   applicable:


o Load  sensors

o M.A.P.

o V.A.C.


o Throttle  position sensor (TPS)

o Stepper  motor

o Mixture  control solenoid

o Incorrect  PROM (on GM cars)

o Catalytic  Converter Sensor

o EGO  Sensor

o EGR  flow sensor

o Airflow  sensor

o Coolant  temperature sensor

o Crankshaft  position sensor

o Engine  RPM sensor

o Electronic  spark controls

o Idle  speed control (ISC)

o Air  temperature sensor

o Air  conditioning sensor (switch)

o Knock  sensor

o Halleffect  switch

o Turbo  boost limiting system (waste gate)

o Torque  converter clutch

o Road  speed sensor

o Oil  and temperature sending unit/gauges *


* The failure in some of these   sensors can result in abnormal combustion temperatures and pressures, blown head   gaskets, burnt pistons, piston scuffing and burnt valves, bearing failure and   lack of power may result in eventual engine failure. These conditions are  beyond the control of the remanufacturing process  and are not covered by  the engine warranty!!